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A visit to Coastal Georgia | |
One in a series of travel articles It was billed as the storm of the season. The northeast was paralyzed by a winter storm while we partied the days away on Eagle Island, a private island just off the southeast Georgia Coast. Yes, Georgia does have a coastline, approximately 100 miles of it which I discovered comes as a surprise to many from outside the area.. It also has many islands, public and private. Some of the private islands, with accommodations, are available for rent. And that is where this story begins. Who hasn’t dreamed of escaping to their own private island? When most people think these thoughts, it is usually the tropical islands of the Caribbean that come to mind or perhaps the South Pacific or even the Mediterranean. For most of us it remains just that, a dream, particularly with today’s economic realities. This dream might seem out of reach if you are looking at exotic foreign locales. But the dream is attainable if you look much closer to home. Meeting our group at the public dock in Darien, Georgia, just west of busy I-95, was Capt. Andy Hill, owner of the 10 acre Eagle Island. Boarding his 25 foot bay boat, we were transported to our own temporary private island, a trip of only 15 minutes but a world away from everyday reality. The boat carried everything need for four days of survival and partying. Arriving at the dock on Mayhall Creek just off the Darien River, we had our first look at paradise; a three story lodge set in a clearing the between the marsh and woods. The eagles, after which the island was named, were soaring over their nest alongside the lodge. Baggage and supplies were off loaded and carried to the lodge. We followed Capt. Andy for our first look inside our “rustic” accommodations. The main floor had two bed rooms, a bath, full kitchen, living room, fireplace and dining area. Upstairs, reached by a spiral staircase, was a sleeping loft. On the ground floor was a large room with multiple bunk beds, a bathroom, laundry and game room area. Once unpacked, it was time to stroll the trail through the heavily wooded hammock. In amongst the trees the silence was deafening. All of the hard wood trees associated with the area’s hammocks were there and heavily laden with Spanish moss. The views from wood’s edge were over seemingly endless miles of coastal marsh. The light and color changed with the time of day and the swiftly flowing tidal waters brought movement into this serene world. It is a dynamic environment. Georgia has 8 major barrier islands: Tybee, Wassaw, Ossabaw, St. Cathrines, Sapelo, St. Simons, Jekyll and Tybee. Three of these barrier islands, Jekyll, St. Simons and Tybee are connected to the mainland by bridges and consequently are developed and considered by many an extension of the mainland. The remaining islands, interchangeably called back barrier islands or hammocks, range in size from less than one acre to over 1,000 acres and are reachable only by boat. Nearly 85% are less than 10 acres and are protected as state, federal or private lands. From the ocean, the area looks the same as when the first Europeans saw this area in the 16th century. Salt marshes constitute the most important geographical features of coastal Georgia. It is estimated that Georgia’s marshes and tidal rivers cover over 700,000 acres while the barrier islands add up to more than 76,000 acres. One third of all marshes remaining on the US Atlantic coast are in Georgia and the presence of both tidal creeks and freshwater bogs and ponds provides great biological diversity. Eagle Island is one of Georgia’s approximately 1200 or so hammocks. The area is an outdoor enthusiasts cornucopia for boating, fishing, swimming, bicycling and birding among other activities. When asked what birds come through here on their migrations, Capt. Andy replied, “All of them.” Capt. Andy is many things but obviously not a birder. He did inform us that a couple of years ago rosette spoonbills started showing up, obviously a sign of climate change. Enjoying a morning sunrise over the marsh from the front porch, with that first cup of coffee, is a delightful way to start the day. Daytime activities are up to you. Stay on the island and visit with family or friends or work on that novel or suntan. If you’ve brought your own boat, or want a charter, the opportunities are endless. Capt. Andy can provide transportation to Darien or the 12,000 acre Sapelo Island with its miles of magnificent, mostly deserted, beaches. |
Kayaking the creeks and marshes is one of the area’s highlights. The waters offer multiple opportunities for kayakers and canoeists both novice and expert. But because of strong tides and sometimes confusing channels, the use of a guide or outfitter is recommended. Danny Grissette of Altamaha Coastal Tours, based in Darien, gave our group a learned lecture on the beauty and difficulty of the local waters. His company can provide kayaks, canoes and bicycles for both self and guided tours of the salt marshes, tidal creeks and abandoned rice fields and plantations. The Georgia Coastal Bight, the westernmost part of the Atlantic Bight, is a gentle inland sweep in the Atlantic seaboard that produces a more intense tidal movement than in neighboring states. Tide differences here usually average from 6 - 8 feet between high and low, but may go up to 11 feet during exceptionally high spring tides. The tides affect water flow and salinity 30 - 40 miles up stream. I was there during a moon tide and the tidal fluctuations were awesome. Enjoying the sunset on the marsh trail, while sipping a glass of wine, is a the perfect way to end the day. Then it’s back to the lodge for dinner. Bring and prepare your own food or arrange for some or all meals to be delivered from fine mainland restaurants. Capt. Andy will be happy to handle all of the details. Capt. Andy boasts that Eagle Island is a “5-Moon Resort.” What it is, is the ultimate in a laid back vacations. The island and its facilities are yours to do as you wish...in total seclusion. Enjoy a honeymoon for the first or second time. Party or reconnect with family and friends. Kids have their own accommodation on first floor. Hold a business conference or reunion with no outside interruptions. Several couples sharing the cost for renting their own private piece of paradise makes for a very reasonable vacation. |
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For more information about Eagle Island and the other islands of coastal Georgia, go to www.PrivateIslandsofGeorgia.com |
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